Day 25 - June 28, 2013 - Owensboro, KY to Sebree, KY

Mileage - 37.4

Total miles - 764.7

We woke up in Owensboro feeling really good, rested, and ready to start the day! After grabbing breakfast at the hotel, and hanging around in the room a bit too long, we took off to start our backtrack to the actual route.

We knew we had come about 13 miles or so off route to get to a hotel in Owensboro, and used a route mapping app to try to do it a little quicker than the day before.  For the first 6 or 7 miles, we stuck to the same route from before, which was pretty darn flat and nice!

Soon after that, however...we turned onto a road we hadn't ridden on the day before, all was fine for a mile or so, then it turned to a gravel farm road between fields.  Thinking it wasn't that far (less than 2 miles maybe), and there were some ruts left by truck tires where we could ride and avoid most of the deep gravel, we just kept going, and hoped for the best.

It didn't take long for the gravel to get deeper, which made it very difficult to keep control of the bikes.  Mel ended up walking her bike at one point.  It's always an adventure!

We had our first dog encounter of the day as we came to a farm with an older lady mowing the lawn.  Her dog ran out braking and chasing us, but when I stopped and put my hand out to her, she lowered her head and walked right over to be loved.  We've found this to be the case with most dogs we have encountered...and it proved true again just a few miles down the road when we ran into this cutie:

Today was full of the rolling hills we have experienced all across Kentucky - and they are exhausting.  They are not the same as the roller coaster hills in Virginia, which had a steep climb up the first one, but also a steep drop allowing you to shoot right up the next one without much effort.  The hills here require effort to climb, then have either a really short drop or just level off at the end.  Not nearly as fun, and they wear you out when they come one after another!  Mel always powers right up them, while I have to stop a time or two to catch my breath!  Here she is, way up ahead of me on one of them:

We rolled into Sebree around 4:30, and found a Subway!  How exciting - fresh veggies!  We grabbed a sandwich and some Gatorade to enjoy at the hostel later on, and headed through town to find the First Baptist Church, which has a cyclist hostel in its basement.

When we arrived at the church, Pastor Bob showed us around, then left us to do our own thing.  The hostel doubles as the church's youth center, so it had tons of couches, a big screen tv, pool table, ping pong, foosballl, and a full kitchen.  They also installed a shower for cyclists, and have a huge map to track where everyone is from who rolls through.  Great place to stay!  We passed our evening playing ping pong, watching tv, and blogging.  It was very relaxing!

Day 24 - June 27, 2013 - Utica, KY to Owensboro, KY

Miles - 18.5

Total miles - 727.3

We woke up in the fire station in Utica just as the other cyclists were getting ready to leave for the day. I was still feeling quite yucky from whatever horrible food I ate the day before. Since we were planning on riding just a short distance to Sebree, I requested a little more time to rest, and tried to eat some food and get more fluids in me. Finally, we got ourselves packed up and headed out from the fire station. 

We had just made it up our first few hills and were on some flat ground when we stopped to take a quick break under the shade of a tree by a house. We were greeted a few minutes later by the man who owned the home, who was just wondering if we were ok. He and Erica started discussing our trip and I was pretty sure that I was getting ready to either get sick or pass out. I was probably close to dehydration after being so sick. The man noticed I had gone pale and ran up to his porch to bring me a place to sit in the shade. A few minutes later, his wife, who happened to be an RN, came out with some water and crackers. These kind strangers were so amazing...they brought us plenty of cold water, some medicine to calm my stomach down a bit, and even brought Erica some food while I was recovering. We wrote down their address so that we could send them a thank you card. Sometimes the kindness of complete strangers is the best medicine in the world. 

Erica also tried to find a car for us to rent, so we could get to a nearby town in case I got worse, but the only cars available to rent were those tiny Fiats...rental car was a no-go. We decided our best bet was to get to Owensboro, which was only about 14 miles from where we were. 

It was a tough 14 miles, with some big hills and long stretches of road between the super hot wheat fields, and I had to take lots of breaks to drink as much water as possible. We made it to a hotel in Owensboro, where I promptly laid down to get rest. After a while, I felt good enough to eat, so we went across the street to Panera, for some soup and a delicious Mediterranean Veggie sandwich. After getting back to the hotel, I fell asleep and stayed asleep until early the next morning. It didn't feel like a super productive day and I felt bad for delaying our arrival in Sebree for another day. However, I can tell you that the next day I woke up feeling ready to go and ready to tackle another day.

Day 23 - June 26, 2013 - Falls of Rough, KY to Utica, KY

Mileage - 48

Total mileage - 708.8

We knew the first part of today was going to be very hilly, and it really was!  We walked up a few of the first hills we couldn't power up, and neither of us were really feeling up to par this morning.  We struggled through though, and I think we may have asked a few times if we had woken up back in Virginia again!

It's hard to read, but it says "Husband".  Wonder where "Wife" has to live?  :)

Just outside of Fordsville, we passed a cyclist going Eastbound who was from Beijing, China!  And we were stopped in the middle of a hill putting on sunscreen (see mom, we do wear it!), we saw three more cyclists pedaling up the hill!  The first was Sam, who we met on our very first day in Yorktown, and he was with two British cyclists, a man and a woman.  We talked for a bit, discussed our plans to stay in Utica for the evening due to approaching storms, and said our temporary goodbyes as they pedaled on.

We got about halfway into our day, and stopped for a cold drink at a grocery store in Whitesville, KY.  We sat in the shade for a bit, enjoying a drink and a banana, and talked about how we were making decent time.  It's always a mistake to do that...  And today was the first time I had experienced my sweat drying into a fine layer of salt on my skin!

We only had 20 miles left.  But of course, those 20 miles were painful!  We walked a few hills, but quite a few less than we would have had to in the beginning.  We finally arrived at the top of the last hill, and were thrilled to see that the volunteer  fire department that doubles as a hostel for cyclists was at the bottom of that hill!we arrived to find the trio we saw before, and one more cyclist already there and showered.  We quickly followed suit, and chatted about our respective trips.  We had some laughs, and it was good to spend some time with people experiencing the same things we are everyday!

Later that evening, as we were all preparing for bed, the tornado alarm went off, and it wasn't long before about 8 members of the local community were piling in to the fire station, as it is their storm shelter!  It was a bit before 9 when that happened, and some of us tried to sleep, while Andy and Alex from the UK enjoyed a rarely seen lightning storm!

About 20 minutes later, the warning was canceled and everyone left.  But...about 15 minutes after that, the alarm was back on, and even more people piled into the fire station!  Mel was feeling pretty horrible all evening, so she was trying to rest, and this wasn't helping!

Later on, around 1am, I was finally dozing off, when I felt something on my collarbone through my shirt.  I pulled it off, and it was a tick!  Gross!  I had to get up again and find a paper towel so I could smash the little bugger...ugh.  A tick bite is second only to a snake bite on my list of horrible occurrences, so it totally grossed me out that the damn thing had bitten me.  So of course, the rest of the night was spent feeling like I was covered in ticks, dreaming about being covered in ticks, and generally sleeping horribly.  Mel was up sick most of the night (food poisoning), so it was a rough one, to say the least!

Here's Badtz hanging out on a fire truck! Having a fantastic adventure!  (And I haven't lost him yet! :) )

Day 22 - June 25, 2013 - Glendale, KY to Falls of Rough, KY

Mileage - about 48 (I think?)

Total mileage - 659.3

After our tent dried a bit from the humidity overnight, we headed out to get back to the route after our weekend off.  We were about 7 miles off route, but luckily most of it was downhill!

We were quickly breezing through the cute, albeit mostly abandoned, downtown of Sonora, then out into some open, beautifully flat farmland.  It was just like home!  

We breezed through the first part of our day, and quickly arrived at a little store at a fork in the road, and stopped in looking for a cold drink.  We found a really nice family inside - mom, dad, and daughter - and ended up buying drinks, and sitting and talking with them for about an hour and a half before we remembered we needed to move on down the road.  Their place is called the Double L Grocery, and they also let cyclists stay there at the store  (and even teach some German cyclists how to play softball!).  They have plans to turn a shed in the back into a cyclist hostel, and mom even ended up buying an abandoned school building, which they used to let cyclists stay in until someone stole the electrical out of it.  What a bummer - these are really good people!

Of course, not too long after that stop, we ran into a ridiculously steep uphill after a river...

The terrain was pretty up and down after that - the same rolling hills we will undoubtedly find all across Kentucky, Illinois, and Missouri.  It wasn't too long before we hit another milestone - crossing from Eastern Standard Time to Central Time!  This happened at a random county line in Kentucky:

It got really, really hot and humid around mid-afternoon, and as we stopped to rest in the shade of a lovely tree (few and far between in farm country), we heard meowing, and this cutie came out of the brush near a farm:

 Seems to be someone's very friendly barn cat - he was trying to climb Mel's leg and join us on the trip!

We got closer to the Rough River and lake created by the dam, and the road got quite a bit hillier.  We powered up the last few of them, and coasted in to the Rough River State Park campground a bit after 6.  We set up camp, found some left behind firewood, and tried unsuccessfully to start a campfire, but everything was utterly too damp from the humidity.  

The park office was closed when we arrived, and when we left in the morning, so we snuck through with a free campsite (with electricity!) and shower for the night!

Day 21 - June 24, 2013 - Louisville, KY to Glendale, KY

So, since we were totally having a blast hanging out with my parents, plus we had a late night after the concert, oh and there was some morning rain...we decided to make it a laundry and travel day. 

We stayed at the Galt House, a beautiful hotel right on the riverfront in Louisville and enjoyed their amazing breakfast buffet. My parents really enjoyed their made to order omelets! We headed just south of downtown to the University of Louisville to do some laundry, which didn't take too long. 

We got back on the road to pick up a few other items we needed, then kept trying to find a bike store or sporting goods store, but all we found was a hunting store in a random town. 

Before too long, my parents were dropping us off in Glendale, Kentucky, at the Glendale Inn. It was here that we learned a valuable lesson about asking to see the hotel room before paying for it. Let us just say that I had my concerns about our safety and overall health if we were to stay at this hotel. Even my dad was not thrilled for us to stay at this place. Eventually, I spoke up while visiting the travel station and we decided to drive down the road to a local campground to stay the night. When you decide to camp instead of staying in a hotel...yeah, imagine the hotel being that bad. 

It seemed like we were delaying the inevitable, saying bye to my parents and a really wonderful weekend. I cried as we said goodbye. My parents are so wonderful and supportive, and I have missed them so much...getting to see them and hang out was a huge highlight of this trip for me. We shared stories from our bike trip, and my mom shared stories about growing up in Kentucky...it was just so great. And a relief to be with the people that represent home to me...it was just priceless. 

Day 20 - June 23, 2013 - Lexington, KY to Louisville, KY - Rest Day

Mileage - 0

We slept in a bit this morning, then headed out from Lexington to Louisville with Mel's parents, with a quick stop for breakfast at Cracker Barrel along the way.  It was so great to spend time with them this weekend!

After checking in to our hotel, everyone was worn out again, so we blogged a bit, then napped.  We met up with a bunch of friends for dinner at a Cuban place (yum!) before heading down to the Iriquois Ampitheater for the Brandi Carlile show.  The show was great, as usual, with the new cover of Fleetwood Mac's "The Chain" a definite highlight of the evening!

We had such a great night visiting with some great friends we have made!  And, we had first had a chat with Brandi and Catherine about Looking Out Across America at the Louisville BC show last August, so it's crazy to think we are nearly 1/3 of the way through this thing that was a vague plan last year!

This isn't Shep (obviously), but we saw these in Cracker Barrel and they made me think of him!  (And it's borderline inappropriate looking too, so haha :))

Day 19 - June 22, 2013 - Breaks, VA to Lookout, KY (and Lexington, KY)

Mileage - about 26 (biking)

Total mileage - about 609

Packed up our tent in Breaks Interstate Park a little late this morning, and I wanted to actually see an overlook of "The Grand Canyon of the South" before we took off, so we parked the bikes at the visitor center and headed off on a "short" walk.

The short walk turned out to be another of my famous "death marches".  It was a good 1/3 of a mile down the park road, then probably a half mile each way on a winding path through the woods that changed elevation quite a bit.  In my defense, I had no clue - the ranger guy said it was close.  Again, don't listen to people who drive everywhere...but we saw it, and it was nice, and we finally got on the way around 11 - way, way too late!

We sped down a hill out of the park, only to be consistently trucked by curvy roads that appear to go downhill, but actually go uphill.  Tricky bastards...

We got to the bottom of a hill, and found this:

Never had we been thrilled to cross the border into Kentucky!  Virginia is behind us now, including all of its mountainous terrain!  1 state down, 9 to go!

We were planning to get to Bypro, Ky to meet Mel's parents who were picking us up for the weekend, but we were late getting to Lookout, and thought they would meet up with us before we could get to Bypro, since we needed to stop for yet another lovely gas station lunch before going any further.  We decided to stop and just wait for them in Lookout, and ended up meeting or at least seeing the entire population of Lookout while we waited!

They finally found us, and we headed up to stop for the night in Lexington, KY.  We had enough time to check in to our hotel, grab dinner from an odd little hole in the wall with unusually tasty late night treats, and pass out.